Restaurant Spotlight: M Sushi at Fenton
From top to bottom, the M Sushi sashimi sampler includes scallop, red sea bream, otoro fatty tuna, bluefin tuna, sea trout, and knifejaw.
From top to bottom, the M Sushi sashimi sampler includes scallop, red sea bream, otoro fatty tuna, bluefin tuna, sea trout, and knifejaw.
The nigiri sampler is made with aged akasu vinegar (sake lees vinegar) and includes Japanese sea trout, bluefin tuna, otoro fatty tuna, and more.
The nigiri sampler is made with aged akasu vinegar (sake lees vinegar) and includes Japanese sea trout, bluefin tuna, otoro fatty tuna, and more.
Talented sushi chefs create traditional rolls plus sashimi and nigiri creations.
Talented sushi chefs create traditional rolls plus sashimi and nigiri creations.
The citrus-forward Yuzu 5 Ways dessert is sure to please.
The citrus-forward Yuzu 5 Ways dessert is sure to please.
Sea trout sashimi, one of numerous gluten-free items
Sea trout sashimi, one of numerous gluten-free items
The Futomaki roll comprises sea trout, tuna, whitefish, tamago, red pickle, kampyo, cucumber, shiso, and dashi soy.
The Futomaki roll comprises sea trout, tuna, whitefish, tamago, red pickle, kampyo, cucumber, shiso, and dashi soy.
The sea trout avocado roll, which is considered traditional maki.
The sea trout avocado roll, which is considered traditional maki.
Inventive cocktails like the lychee lime fizz (top) and wasabi martini (above) pair nicely with sushi.
Inventive cocktails like the lychee lime fizz (top) and wasabi martini (above) pair nicely with sushi.
Sea Trout Avocado Roll
Sea Trout Avocado Roll

Michael Lee isn’t just a prolific chef and restaurateur. He’s also a visionary.

Consider this: No sooner had he debuted his M Sushi location at Fenton in Cary than he began building out his sixth eatery called The Test Kitchen.

Since opening a quartet of highly regarded Asian-inspired eateries in Durham, Lee has shifted toward expanding his culinary horizons. Thankfully, the Korea native set his sights on Cary for his latest ventures.

M Sushi at Fenton, which opened in late 2022, earned Honorable Mention Maggy Award honors in the Best New Restaurant category.

“The people in Cary have embraced us with a really warm welcome, and we are extremely grateful for it,” Lee said during a recent sit-down conversation at lunchtime.

Lee was quick to explain that the Cary location differs considerably from its Durham counterpart.

M Sushi at Fenton Chef/Owner Michael Lee

“We didn’t just want to cut and paste the same template at the new restaurant,” he said, adding that the Cary location not only has a different appearance, but it also has a distinctive menu.

“Here in Cary, we focus on nigiri and sashimi for a more traditional Japanese experience,” he said. “We also purposefully use a different type of rice and even two different vinegars. We import the Koshihikari rice grain from Japan and have it milled at a special rice factory in New York.”


The Test Kitchen is an incubator concept connected to M Sushi at Fenton. It is scheduled to open sometime this spring.

Get ready for a cool new culinary concept. “We named it The Test Kitchen, but it not just for testing, but rather for making anything we want,” explained Michael Lee as he gave us a sneak peek of his gastronomic incubator that’s attached to M Sushi at Fenton.

Lee envisions The Test Kitchen churning out ambitious fare like Singapore chili crabs, Italian pasta, Japanese ramen, and Vietnamese-style beef carpaccio. If everything goes according to plan, it will all happen in a modern open kitchen so guests can see, hear, and smell everything as it is prepared.

“It will have a completely different vibe to M Sushi, and the patio outside will make things even more lively,” Lee said.

Look for The Test Kitchen to open sometime this spring. Reservations will be available.

While purposely devoid of any windows or natural light, the restaurant’s modern interior features a narrow dining room, striking faux stone walls, and a long, sleek bar that allows guests to watch the sushi chefs meticulously assemble their masterful creations.

Among the tempting curated small plates are a nigiri sampler; truffle-infused tuna tartare; and crudo, which involves six pieces of raw fish with tangy ponzu sauce, sweet baby cherry peppers, fried shallots, matcha salt, and more.

Nigiri and sashimi selections range from sustainably farmed caviar and Japanese black sea bream to amberjack, mackerel, and negitoro (otherwise known as fatty tuna).

When it comes to maki, standout signature rolls include Futomaki (sea trout, tuna, whitefish); Peruvian Rainbow with panko-crusted scallop and spicy tuna tartare; and Spider, which comprises tempura-battered softshell crab amid sweet chili aioli and eel sauce.

Traditional rolls are among Chef Lee’s favorites due to their simplicity and flavor-forward ingredients. Order the sea trout with avocado or cucumber, the hamachi with scallion, or even the California roll. The vegan bento features seaweed salad, inari sushi, eggplant curry, maitake tempura, and potato croquette.

Seeking a next-level umami encounter? M Sushi provides a nigiri omakase (Japanese for “entrust yourself to the chef ”) experience that will deliver a multi-course meal to each person at the table. For extra zest, we recommend paying the upcharge and adding real grated wasabi.

“Our menu is constantly evolving, as I always want to push myself to innovate and improve,” Lee said.

Don’t pass up dessert. Best choice: the palate-pleasing Yuzu 5 Ways, a distinctive citrus-infused olive oil cake, ice cream, and meringue.

As for beverages, M Sushi covers all the bases with wine, liquor, sake, champagne, imported beer, and inventive craft cocktails. Try the inimitable wasabi martini or the lychee lime fizz with choice of Haku vodka or Roku gin with lychee puree, fresh lime juice, and prosecco.

Service is efficient and accommodating, with a harmonious, guest-first approach from start to finish.

M Sushi at Fenton is open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner and Sundays for lunch only. Reservations are strongly recommended.

M Sushi
4 Fenton Main St., Suite 120, Cary
(919) 729-5662
m-restaurants.com

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1 Comment

  • Janisse Gass says:
    Jun 13, 2023 at 6:19 pm

    Your article on Michael Lee is inspiring. Our son runs M Tempura in Durham now and it’s quite a gastronomic surprise. He started at the Test Kitchen and he really enjoys his job. I’m so glad that he’s a happy chef in the M Group,
    Janisse Gass

    Reply

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